In Chicago’s nightlife scene, where performance and identity blur into one, Mats Dahlberg is carving out a space that exists between fashion and drag. Rooted in queer performance culture, Mats’ work transforms identity, expression, and movement into garments that are meant not just to be worn, but to be embodied.
Drawing inspiration from a mix of global and conceptual influences, Mats cites designers like Eda Birthing, known for crafting pieces for drag performers that blur the lines between costume and couture. They also look to Kevin Demondriage for his bold use of color and texture, and Viktor & Rolf for their conceptual, story-driven approach to design. These influences converge into Mats’ own distinct vision -one that lives in the in-between space of performance and fashion.
Fashion wasn’t always the plan. As a child, Mats loved dressing up, but initially pursued fine arts and painting. It wasn’t until later that fashion became an extension and ultimately a necessity of their artistic voice. As people began requesting custom pieces, what started as personal expression quickly evolved into something larger: a growing demand for designs that reflect individuality and presence.
When asked about their design philosophy, Mats emphasizes fluidity. “Fashion is not gendered,” they explain, viewing clothing as both a tool of identity and communication. Their work reflects the freedom that comes with queerness, no rules, no restrictions, allowing each piece to exist outside traditional binaries and expectations.
That perspective has already led to significant recognition. Mats’ designs have appeared on RuPaul’s Drag Race through a collaboration with performer Nini Coco, marking a major milestone in their career. Their work has also been worn by performers in Las Vegas live productions associated with the show, as well as across international stages through touring artists. Reflecting on the experience, Mats describes it as “amazing” and a major source of exposure within both queer media and fashion communities.
Beyond television, Mats’ impact is deeply rooted in Chicago. Their work has been recognized by local media outlets and celebrated within the city’s creative scene, including showcases at the Epiphany Center for the Arts, a respected institution known for highlighting emerging and boundary-pushing artists. They have also received accolades such as Best Dressed and Best Design at Chicago’s Nightlife Awards, further cementing their presence within the city’s underground and artistic communities.
Despite these achievements, Mats is candid about the challenges of being an independent designer. Operating as a one-person brand requires balancing creativity with business, all while maintaining authenticity. The process can be demanding, but it also reinforces their commitment to staying true to their vision.
Looking ahead, Mats remains focused on designing performance drag, burlesque, nightlife, and beyond. Their upcoming collection is one to watch.
Closing the conversation, Dahlberg shares advice inspired by Rick Owens: “Don’t sketch, just make the clothes.” For them, the message is simple but powerful: create relentlessly. “Make, make, make,” they say. “You can always adjust and edit, but if you have nothing, there’s nothing to change.”
For Mats, fashion is not just about design-it’s about identity, community, and the act of bringing expression into reality.
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